Features of growing watermelons in Siberia in the open field: step by step instructions
The juicy pulp of the watermelon is an excellent summer snack. Chilled it perfectly refreshes: it is both a dessert and an original drink. Delicious necks, smoothies and lemonades are made from sweet fruits. And they are also added to salads, pickled, jams and preserves are cooked. Unfortunately, watermelons sold in markets and shops do not always meet the requirements for the quality and safety of products.
Therefore, it is best to grow them yourself to be sure that the crop is free of nitrates and harmful substances. Domestic and foreign breeders have bred many different varieties and hybrids of watermelon. Now this healthy delicacy is grown in the open field not only in the south, but also in the Urals and even in the harsh Siberian conditions.
The topic of our article is - growing watermelons in Siberia in the open field. You will learn which varieties are most suitable for the Siberian climate, how to properly prepare seeds and seedlings, how to feed the plantings and when to harvest.
The content of the article
Features of growing watermelons in Siberia in the open field
Summer in Siberia is short and does not indulge in warmth, therefore, melons here are preferable to cultivate seedlings. Growing through seedlings protects delicate shoots from recurrent frost and speeds up the ripening of the crop.
Weather
For residents of the European part of Russia, Siberia is associated with harsh climatic conditions. However, this statement is only partially true. After all, Siberia occupies a huge territory. It is conventionally divided into Western, Eastern and Northern.
Weather conditions in Western Siberia
The western part includes Omsk, Tomsk, Novosibirsk, Kemerovo regions, Altai Territory, the Republic of Khakassia and Altai. This region of Siberia is characterized by the mildest climate. In summer, the temperature is set in the range of + 15 ... + 35 ° С.
Weather conditions of Eastern Siberia
The Irkutsk Region, the Republic of Tyva and Buryatia, and the Trans-Baikal Territory belong to Eastern Siberia. The climate of Eastern Siberia is sharply continental. Summer is sunny, rains are rare. The average temperature in the summer months is + 15 ° С.
Weather conditions of the northern regions
In the northern territories of the Krasnoyarsk Territory, the weather conditions are harsh. There is practically no summer in these parts. The temperature rarely rises above + 10 ° С.
Thus, the climate of Western Siberia is most favorable for growing watermelons in the open field.
Suitable varieties of watermelons
The key to successful cultivation of a southern culture in unfamiliar conditions is the correct choice of variety. Suitable for open field cultivation in Siberia early maturing varieties and watermelon hybrids. When choosing a variety, attention is paid to its resistance to diseases and sudden temperature changes.
Pumpkins of early watermelons will not please you with their large size. But they will have time to mature before the end of the short Siberian summer.
Popular varieties suitable for growing in Siberia include:
- Chill... An early ripe variety that tolerates a drop in temperature well. The growing season is 85-100 days. Fruit weight reaches 6-7 kg.
- Ultra early... The growing season is 80 days.Ball-shaped fruits, dark green, with thin sparse stripes over the entire surface. Fruit weight is 4–6 kg.
- Photon... Ripens in 80-100 days. The variety is undemanding to soil, resistant to diseases. The pulp is tender and juicy, with a moderate amount of seeds. Pumpkins weigh on average 3–6 kg.
- Siberian lights... The variety was bred specifically for growing in Siberia. Resistant to low temperatures, few sunny days and lack of moisture. The fruits are round, dark, without stripes. Fruit weight is 3-4 kg.
- Siberian giant... Also bred specifically for northern latitudes. Differs in large fruits, cold-resistant, well stored. The pulp is sweet and juicy.
Growing instructions
In Siberia, watermelons in the open field are cultivated through seedlings. Before replanting plants to the garden, measure the temperature of the soil. The earth must be warmed up to at least + 15 ° С. Also, before disembarking, you should make sure that the threat of return frosts has passed.
Council. Measure the temperature of the soil before planting watermelon seedlings in open ground. If the indicator is + 15 ° С or higher, proceed to planting.
Preparatory stage
Preparation for planting includes seed and soil treatment.
Seed preparation will speed up the emergence of seedlings and protect young plants from disease. First, the seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth and kept there until pecking. Wet sawdust is also used for germination.
Treatment of seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate will destroy pathogenic bacteria and pathogens. The seeds are kept in the solution for half an hour, and then washed with clean water. They are now ready to plant.
A bed for melons is laid out in an open, sunny place. The earth is dug up, cleared of weeds. Additionally, fertilizers, compost, humus are applied.
It is good to test the soil for acidity before planting. An excess of compounds of iron, aluminum and manganese leads to the cessation of growth and death of plants for no obvious reason.
Need to know. Acidic soils are neutralized with wood ash (not less than 0.5 kg per 1 m²). In addition, ash will provide plants with calcium, magnesium, phosphorus.
Watermelons are not planted in the beds where legumes and cabbage used to grow. It makes no sense to plant watermelons after melons: zucchini, pumpkin, melon or the same watermelon.
Favorable predecessors are potatoes, onions, tomatoes, carrots and garlic.
Growing seedlings
Seeds for seedlings are sown at the end of April. If you do this earlier, then the seedlings will outgrow and take root badly.
Each seed is planted in a separate container (tetrapak, plastic or peat glass) with a volume of at least 0.6 liters.
The soil mixture is used loose, breathable, with the addition of humus and sand.
Attention. After sowing, the containers are placed in a warm place with a temperature of + 30 ... + 32 ° C. If the temperature is below + 25 ° C, the emergence of seedlings will slow down. And if it is below + 20 ° С, then the seeds will not sprout.
After the sprouts appear, the illumination of the plants is increased, and the temperature is lowered. Optimal nighttime values are + 12 ... + 14 ° С, and daytime - + 23 ... + 25 ° С.
A couple of weeks after the emergence of the plant feed... For this, a complex water-soluble fertilizer is used. It is reintroduced after 8-10 days.
Water the seedlings abundantly, but infrequently, using warm, settled water. After watering, the topsoil is loosened.
1-2 weeks before disembarkation, the seedlings are transferred to a greenhouse, greenhouse or to a glazed balcony. There, the plants will be hardened and receive the maximum amount of sunlight.
Council. If the seedlings are stretched out, add soil to the container to form additional roots. Or gently bend the stem in a half ring and sprinkle with damp earth.
Landing in open ground
The specific date for planting seedlings in open ground is determined based on weather conditions and the location of the site. Approximate landing dates are from late May to mid-June.After planting, the plants are protected from temperature drops with a covering material.
A few days before planting, the seedlings begin to harden, gradually increasing the time the plants stay in the air. If the night temperature does not drop below + 10 ° C, the seedlings are left uncovered overnight.
Holes are prepared in advance. First, dig holes 0.5 m deep. Add 2 buckets of humus or compost to each, a third of a bucket of sand, 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate and Kemira-Universal. Mix everything thoroughly.
The bottom of the hole is well watered and plants are planted. The distance between the bushes is determined based on the recommendations of the seed manufacturer.
Attention. When planting seedlings, the earthen lump is not buried. It should rise about 2 cm above the ground.
Care
After about two weeks, the plants will adapt to the new location and start growing. At this moment, the first feeding is carried out. To do this, use a solution of mullein, chicken droppings (1:10), urea (30 g per 10 l of water). After another couple of weeks, fertilizers are reapplied. This time, a solution of complex mineral fertilizer is used (30-40 g per 10 l of water).
Plantings are watered abundantly, but infrequently. Use only warm, settled water. Until the end of June, watering is watered about once a week, then once every 2 weeks, and from the beginning of August, watering is stopped. Excess moisture at the time of ripening reduces the amount of sugars in the fruit.
Possible growing problems and how to solve them
In the process of growing watermelons in the open field in Siberia, farmers are faced with the defeat of plantings by pests and the development of diseases. Let's consider these problems in more detail.
Diseases
Planting watermelons affects the following diseases:
- Fusarium. This is a fungus that destroys the foliage and stems of the bush. As the disease progresses, the plant rots. The pathogen enters the bush through the roots. The most common cause of the development of the disease is excess moisture in the soil.
- Anthracnose. Another fungal disease. It affects the foliage and whips of the watermelon bush. Gradually, black spots form on the plant, the foliage dries up, the fruits rot. The disease is transmitted through plant seeds and is also spread by spores through insects.
- Root rot. The disease is recognized by brown and black weeping spots. The leaves turn yellow, crack, the root system collapses. The soil around the bush gives off an unpleasant odor. In an advanced stage, the plant is removed and burned.
- Powdery mildew. It manifests itself as a whitish bloom on foliage, tops of shoots, fruit ovaries. Over time, the leaves turn brown, wounds appear on them. Watermelons stop growing and singing.
If rot or fungal disease is found, the affected parts of the plant are removed and burned. The rest of the bushes are sprayed with a fungicide solution. Chemical spraying is stopped one month before harvest.
Pests
Protecting watermelons from insects is important as they carry disease. The danger is represented by melon aphids, larvae of sprout flies, spider mites, wireworms, thrips. To identify parasites, the landing is periodically inspected. A problem detected in time eliminates the need to spray plants with insecticides and chemicals.
Preventive measures
Prevention of the onset and development of diseases includes:
- compliance with the conditions of cultivation;
- selection of disease resistant varieties;
- disinfection of soil and seed material;
- compliance with the rules of crop rotation;
- clearing the site in the fall from plant residues;
- timely fertilization and loosening of the soil.
Harvesting
Harvesting of watermelons begins in August. Please note that early maturing varieties are not intended for long-term storage. All fruits will have to be eaten in the near future or used for canning. The collected fruits of early varieties are stored for no more than 1.5 weeks.
Watermelons are removed from the garden as they ripen. Fruits from one plant are harvested in 2-3 doses. The pumpkins are cut with a sharp knife or garden shears.It is undesirable to tear off the stalk with your hands - this leads to rotting of the fruit in this place.
The ripeness of watermelons is determined by their appearance. In a ripe fruit, the stalk, antennae and leaves near the fruit dry out. This is a universal sign of ripeness for all pumpkin crops. In addition, when you tap your fingers on the watermelon, a dull low sound is heard.
Experienced Farmer Tips
For those who first decided grow sweet fruits on your site, advice from experienced farmers will come in handy:
- For planting, choose a well-lit place warmed up by the sun throughout the day. Lack of sunlight will negatively affect the taste of the fruit - the watermelons will be unsweetened. The accumulation of sugars directly depends on the intensity of photosynthesis.
- Plants are not planted densely, the bushes must be ventilated.
- Watermelon beds are watered moderately. Excessive moisture leads to the spread of root rot.
- A place for planting is dug up in the fall and rotted manure is brought in. This will make it easier for the roots of the plant to penetrate deep into the soil.
- The ideal option is to sow the area for watermelons with winter wheat, perennial grasses, corn in advance (1-2 years before planting) and dig them up at the stage of young plants, embedded in the soil.
Conclusion
Growing southern crops, including watermelons, in the harsh Siberian climate is not an easy task. However, even in such climatic conditions, you can get a decent harvest. The main thing is to correctly choose the variety, grow strong, healthy seedlings, prepare the site and provide the plants with proper care.