Is it possible and necessary to huddle beets: we understand the issue and study the general rules for growing root crops

People were engaged in the cultivation of beets as a vegetable crop even before our era. For the first time, this healthy vegetable began to be grown on the islands of the Mediterranean Sea. In soils saturated with fine crystals of sea salt, beets grew especially sugary and tasty. Over time, the root crop began to be cultivated in other countries, including Russia.

Beetroot is an unpretentious plant that does not require special care. In the article we will talk about the peculiarities of caring for the crop, as well as whether it is necessary to huddle the beets if the upper part of the root crop sticks out of the ground.

Hilling beets

After the sprouts appear, the beets begin to grow rapidly, forming a lush rosette of leaves... Soon the root crop itself is shown. The more it grows, the more it begins to bulge out of the ground.

Do I need to huddle if the roots stick out of the ground

At this moment, the gardener often asks the question - is it necessary to huddle beets if they stick out of the ground? No, it doesn `t need. The fact that the root crop rises above the garden does not in the least interfere with the development of the beets. On the contrary, this way the fruits grow and fill better. The sun's rays falling directly on the root crops do not harm them at all.

Why is it unnecessary

The root system of the plant goes deep into the ground, providing the growing root crops with all the necessary nutrients. There is no point in hilling, since beet tops do not give lateral roots.

Beets love space, which is why they are often planted along the edge of the beds occupied by other vegetables. At the same time, root crops grow much larger than those planted in the traditional way on a separate beet bed.

Tips from experienced summer residents about growing beets

To grow a rich harvest of a healthy vegetable, experienced gardeners are advised to adhere to the following rules:

1. Thin seedlings... Otherwise, the root crops will be cramped, and they will not grow large. They begin to thin out when the sprouts stretch by 5-10 cm. In this case, the plants are not pulled out, but cut off. Then the neighbor's root will remain intact.
2. Monitor the condition of the beet tops. Yellowed and withered leaves indicate that the soil lacks nutrients.
3. Once or twice a season water the beet plantings with salt water (1 tbsp. L. In a bucket of water). Surprisingly, salt will make the roots sweeter.
4. Stop watering 3 weeks before harvest. Then the beets will pick up more sugars and will be better stored in winter.

General algorithm for growing beets

Growing beets, like any other vegetable crop, starts with preparing the soil and choosing seed.

Soil preparation and planting

It is better to plant beets where tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes or potatoes used to grow. It is not recommended to use those beds where other root crops were previously kept.

In the selected area, the soil is dug up and fertilized. Remove weeds and level the ground.

Before planting, the seeds are soaked for 12 hours in a warm solution of boric acid (1.5 g per 1 liter of water).This will disinfect the seed and enrich it with boron. After that, the seeds are taken out and placed in ordinary water for another day. If the seeds are not prepared, then the seedlings will have to wait a long time (about 2 weeks). Soaked seeds emerge in 3-5 days.

Seeds are sown in warmed-up soil, after having moistened it well. Before mass shoots appear, ensure that the soil is constantly moist. Plant seeds effectively before extended rains. On heavy soils, the planting depth is 2.5-3 cm.If the soil is light, then 3-4 cm.

In regions with short and cool summers, beets are grown through seedlings. Beets dive in the stage of cotyledon leaves. Plants are transplanted into open ground when a rosette of 2-3 true leaves has appeared. Young beetroot bushes tolerate transplanting well. Growing through seedlings speeds up the harvest by about 3 weeks.

Watering and fertilizing

After sprouting or planting seedlings in a permanent place, the garden is watered often and little by little. Since young shoots are still weak, and the root system is not developed, deep soil moisture is not required.

Need to know... During the period when roots begin to form, beets are experiencing the maximum need for moisture.

During the period of formation and intensive development, the root crop is watered abundantly - up to 20 liters per sq. m. Poor daily irrigation is a mistake. So only the top layer of the soil will be moistened, and the root crop will receive little water. Watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Then the roots will be sweeter and tastier.

Advice... Water your beet beds in the morning or evening. During the day, wet foliage can burn the sun.

Excess moisture is also bad for plants, as well as lack of moisture. Waterlogging leads to a decrease in the oxygen content in the ground, causes rotting of the root system and provokes the development of pathogenic microbes.

The yellowing of the beet tops signals a lack of nitrogen in the soil. It is this substance that is responsible for the formation of the greenery of root crops.

With nitrogen starvation, the leaves grow small and lethargic, and then change color. The veins turn yellow, thicken and coarse first, and then the entire leaf as a whole.

Reddening of the foliage indicates a lack of magnesium. Leaf spots and dying off of the tips are a sign of iron deficiency.

The culture is sensitive to the lack of boron and manganese in the soil. This problem is typical for sandy and calcareous soils.

The lack of nutrition is compensated for by root and foliar feeding. A quick effect is given by feeding with infusion of mullein or chicken manure (1 kg per bucket of water). Fertilizer is applied between rows (1 bucket for 10-15 running meters). The top dressing on the leaves is washed off with clean water.

Attention... All liquid dressings are carried out in July. During this period, the most active consumption of all nutrients occurs.

Thinning

Planting beets requires thinning. Seedlings are thinned in two stages. The first time is when the seedlings reach 3-5 cm in height. The strongest is chosen from the group of plants, the rest are removed. A gap of 4-5 cm is left between adjacent bushes.

The second time the beets are thinned out when the plants have grown to 10 cm.This time, a distance of 10-12 cm is left between them.

Weeding and loosening

The next day, after watering or rain, the ground is loosened. At the same time, weeds are removed. Loosening should not be neglected, especially if the soil is heavy. For full growth, root crops need constant oxygen supply.

Mulching the beet bed can significantly facilitate maintenance and reduce the number of weeding and loosening. Straw, peat, humus are used as mulch.

Disease and pest control

Beetroots suffer from diseases such as downy mildew, brown rot, cercospora, black leg. Let's consider them in more detail.

Downy mildew

Fungal disease transmitted through infected plant debris. Infection is indicated by deformation of the tops, the appearance of plaque, yellowing and wilting of leaves. Ways of struggle - soil disinfection, the drug "Baikal EM-1".

Brown rot

A disease affecting the root crop. In diseased plants, the tops are underdeveloped. The leaves gradually turn yellow and die off. The fruits themselves begin to rot during long-term storage.

Black leg (root)

This is rotting of the stem, leading to the death of the plant. The development of the disease provokes excess moisture and acidic soil. Prevention - correct agricultural technology, moderate watering.

Cercosporosis

Fungal disease manifested as light spots with a brown border on the leaves.

Beet plantings and insect pests are affected. They pose the greatest danger to immature young plants.

The insects that can cause serious damage to the beet crop are listed below.

Beet aphid

Wingless black insect. The larvae are light. Lays black, shiny eggs. The parasite is dangerous because it sucks the juice from the beet tops. Infected foliage deforms and curls. The leaves turn yellow, the edges and tops turn down, wither and dry out. Root growth slows down, vegetables grow small and unsightly. For the fight, drugs and folk remedies are used - for example, soap solution.

Common beet flea

The beetle is bronze-metallic in color. It becomes more active in April - May. It feeds mainly on young beet sprouts. Lays eggs in the soil in late spring. After birth, the larvae eat the roots of the plants. A flea is recognized by small holes in the leaves and petioles. If there are many pests, the leaves become lace-like.

Beet shields

The flat beetle is green or brown, 6-7 mm long. It hibernates under plant debris and fallen leaves, as well as in thickets of weeds. The greatest harm is caused by the larvae of the shitonos, which completely devour the leaves.

Beet miner fly

The pest is gray-brown in color, 6-7 mm in length. The fly larvae are pale yellow with a wrinkled body surface. They gnaw through the leaf and penetrate inside, forming cavities (mines) inside. From the outside, the damaged area looks like a bubble. Affected leaves turn yellow and dry out. Damage to beets at the initial stage of growth is especially dangerous.

Beet weevil

The beetle is gray-brown in color. The pest is able to destroy plantings in large areas. The weevil lays its eggs in the soil. The larvae hatch after 11 days, and gnaw the roots of the beets in the soil. Because of this, roots grow irregularly shaped.

Pest control measures:

• observance of agricultural technology;
• loosening the soil;
• spraying with neonicotinoids, pyrethroids and other insecticides;
• feeding with ammonia water.

Harvesting and storage

The beets are removed from the garden before the carrots. Beet root crops protrude more above the soil surface and therefore are more damaged frosts... Yellowed and dried lower beet leaves indicate that the vegetable is ripe.

Root crops are dug out carefully so as not to damage the skin. Then root crops are cleaned from soil residues. After that, using a sharp knife, the tops are cut, the stalks are no more than 2 cm. When harvesting, the roots are protected from mechanical damage.

The harvested crop of root crops is carefully sorted out before storage in order to prevent the possible spread of diseases.

Root crops without mechanical damage and not affected by diseases are well stored for up to 8 months. Fruits, the diameter of which does not exceed 10 cm, are best stored. The optimum temperature in the vegetable store is 2-3 ° C, the humidity is 80%.

There are many options for storing beets. Root crops lie well in ordinary plastic bags, sprinkled with sawdust or sand. You can store vegetables in sand, peat, shavings or sawdust in dry and clean boxes. The best storage space is a subfloor, cellar, or basement.

Conclusion

Beetroot is an unpretentious garden crop that does not require hilling. With the cultivation of root crops even a novice gardener can handle it. An indicator of plant health is young beet tops. It should be bright green, free from spots or signs of disease.

Hilling is not required for this plant, since the roots of the beets go deep underground and provide the crop with the necessary amount of nutrients. The plant only needs timely and moderate watering, as well as top dressing if necessary.