Why do you need to pinch cucumbers and how to do it right

The cultivation of cucumbers involves the use of important agricultural techniques. Stepson is one of them. The procedure is essential for a healthy plant and a bountiful harvest. Not all gardeners, even experienced ones, carry out pinching. For beginners, removing unnecessary shoots causes certain difficulties without proper knowledge and skills.

What is pinning

Stealing - this is the removal of lateral shoots growing from the leaf axils (between the leaf and the stem)... It is necessary for the formation of healthy lashes, full flowering and fruit formation. The stepchildren take away juices and nutrients, not allowing the flowers to form, much less the fruit. In addition, pinching cultivates an overgrown plant.

Reference. The correct formation of the bush with the help of pinching increases the level of its illumination, redistributes nutrients and minerals, which has a beneficial effect on productivity.

Why pinch cucumbers

Cucumbers are climbing plants. Without proper care, the plantings thicken strongly, which limits the flow of sunlight, stops the growth and development of culture. Besides, in thickened plantings, air circulation worsens, which leads to leaf rot and increases the risk of developing diseases.

Garden beds are easier to care for, they are easier to harvest due to better visibility. Such plantings can bear fruit until late autumn, and fruit ripening occurs much earlier.

Reference. Cucumbers in an open garden can do without pinching, however, greenhouse plantings must be thinned out.

When to do it

The timing of pinching largely depends on the time of planting, the place of cultivation (greenhouse or open ground), soil conditions, as well as the planting method - straight or seedlings. General recommendations for pinching time are reduced to the stages of culture growth.

The first pinching is recommended when the plant has reached 15-20 cm in height.... The main branch is determined - the most powerful shoot, and all lateral shoots are removed by pinching or completely removing from the leaf sinus. More powerful shoots are recommended to be removed with a secateurs. The last pinching takes place until the end of July, depending on the climate.

Features of pinching cucumbers

Depending on the growing method, the features of pinching are also determined.: different requirements are due to differences in the methods of planting cultivation. The correct scheme is chosen based not only on the growing method, but also on the characteristics of the plants themselves.

In the greenhouse

Compact varieties are suitable for greenhouses, which are not prone to abundant growth and do not require frequent pinching.

Pinching is carried out according to the bush management schemes - in one or more stems. Topping carried out in several stages.

Read also:

Why is the formation of cucumbers in the greenhouse necessary?

How to tie cucumbers in a greenhouse correctly

In the open field

Open field pickling of cucumbers is not popular with vegetable growers. Bushes growing on the ground are not pinned... Plants that need support are subjected to the procedure. Pinching patterns also differ depending on the type of cucumber - self-pollinated or insect-pollinated.

On the trellis

Stepping on a trellis carried out after at least 4-5 internodes are formed (distances from sheet to sheet). Depending on the scheme of the bush, pinching is carried out up to 3-4 leaves. Further pinching is carried out according to the selected scheme.

What is needed for the procedure

Most often, pinching is done by hand, but some prefer to work with a disinfected instrument.

For pinching use:

• sharp scissors;
• secateurs;
• small knife.

When pinching with your hands, it is better to work with gloves.

How to pinch cucumbers correctly

It is important to carry out the pinching procedure correctly so as not to harm the plant.... It is advisable not to allow the growth of stepchildren more than 15-20 cm, otherwise it will be difficult to determine which branch is the main and which is the side: it is easy for an inexperienced gardener to confuse them. The optimal length for pinching is no more than 4-6 cm.

Step-by-step instruction

The general scheme is as follows:

1. The sheet with the stepson is pulled to the side opposite to pinching or cutting.
2. The stepson breaks off as close to the stem as possible, trying not to damage the skin of the leaf or stem.
3. When working with a tool, the stepson is cut as low as possible.

Possible schemes

There are several pinching schemes for the formation of bushes.

The universal circuit is suitable for both self-pollinated varieties, and for varieties with insect pollination:

1. After the appearance of 4-5 leaves, all the lower lateral ovaries and stepsons are removed.
2. After the formation of the 8th leaf, all side shoots are removed, except for one - the topmost one.
3. The next pinching is carried out after 10-11 leaves on the main shoot. All stepchildren on the main and side shoots are removed, leaving two side shoots at the tops.
4. When the main branch reaches a length of 50-60 cm, break off the top for a more competent formation of the remaining lateral shoots. Small stepchildren on all branches are removed.

The scheme of the formation of a bush in one stem is suitable for plants with insect pollination... This scheme makes it easier for pollinators to access flowers:

1. All lateral shoots, flowers and ovaries are removed up to the fifth leaf.
2. At the level of 6-9 leaves, one ovary is left per internode.
3. From 10 leaves, all stepsons and fruits are left intact.

Formation in several stems is necessary for varieties, the fruits of which are tied precisely on the lateral branches:

1. After the formation of 5-6 true leaves, all stepsons, flowers and ovaries are removed, leaving only one upper stepson - later it will become the second main branch.
2. Up to 9-10 leaves are left, one fruit per internode. The main branches are directed in different directions along different supports.
3. Further pinching is carried out as the lateral branches grow.

Another scheme - keeping a bush in two stems... It is almost indistinguishable from the multi-stem pattern, except that the stepsons are removed completely after the second main branch has formed.

Do all cucumbers need to be pinned

Not all varieties need pinching. To rid yourself of this procedure, plant varieties that grow not with whips, but with bushes.... Also, hybrids that do not form lateral branches do not need to be pinned.

The most popular are the following hybrids:

• Regina Plus F1;
• Loyal friends of F1;
• Bouquet F1.

Beam varieties include:

• Prestige;
• Russian style;
• Petrel;
• Tom Thumb.

Varieties and hybrids that do not need pinching:

• Winter storm;
• Gribovchkanka;
• Sarovskiy F1.

Tips from experienced summer residents

Even experienced gardeners need advice "Colleagues in the shop":

1. It is recommended to spawn not only the lateral shoots, but also the whiskers - they are not needed at the level of up to 6-7 of this leaf.
2. The procedure can be carried out with your hands, but the easiest way is to pinch with sharp scissors or garden pruners - this will avoid unnecessary injuries to the plant.
3. Do not feel sorry for the stepchildren, on whom the ovaries have already formed - they will only take away the nutrients from the main ovary and slow down ripening.
4. For long-term fruiting, stepchildren are removed along the entire length of the main branch, the crown of which remains intact.
5. With the first pinching, do not delay - early removal of excess shoots will have a beneficial effect on the formation of the root system, which will subsequently feed the entire plant.
6. It is better not to remove stepchildren whose length has already exceeded 20-25 cm - this will not bring any benefit to the plant. Such a stepson can be left and launched as a side branch.
7. For pinching with tools, it is recommended to have separate scissors or secateurs. If the instrument has previously removed diseased or old leaves or branches, an infection can be brought to the wound site. If it is not possible to use a special tool, it is advisable to disinfect the scissors before the procedure by calcining on fire or soaking in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Conclusion

Parsinking is a painstaking process, and for a novice gardener it is often difficult. At first, it is better to enlist the support of more experienced agricultural colleagues in order to understand the principle and learn how to distinguish the stepson from the main branch, especially on young plants and with overgrown lateral shoots.