How and when to prune raspberries in the summer after fruiting: instructions for beginner gardeners

Correct pruning of raspberries after harvest is the key to health and high productivity in future seasons. The plant adapts better to the dormant period, in the spring it immediately grows, and in the summer it gives a lot of peduncles and fruits. When to prune raspberries in the summer after fruiting and how to do it correctly, read the article.

Why prune raspberries after fruiting

Raspberry ripening begins in early July and ends at the end of the month... For the entire period, approximately 10-12 harvests of fruits are performed. Large-fruited varieties ripen 2 weeks later. After harvesting the main harvest, when single fruits remain on the bushes, gardeners begin to prepare the raspberry tree for wintering.

Pruning raspberries - an important stage of care, which is to remove all fruiting branches and preserve the viability of the bush... The replacement shoots should be preserved on it.

The branches are cut as close to the soil as possible, then removed from the site, burned or buried deeply to prevent the spread of infections.

It is recommended to prune excess young shoots... Excessive amounts of them lead to the loss of nutrients, shading of young growth, which grows thin, tall and does not fully mature. There is a decrease in the immunity and resistance of raspberries to insect pests. The best buds, located in the middle of the shoot, do not ripen well.

After harvest it is recommended to normalize the tape width. It is better to plant raspberries tape method to increase productivity and ease of caring for bushes. The width of the tape at the base is 40 cm, the distance between the stems remaining after pruning is 10-15 cm. The optimal load for 1 m is 15-20 stems, for large-fruited varieties - 10-12 stems.

After harvest gardeners practice pruning old bushes... The raspberry root system is prone to branching and rises above the soil surface every year. New roots become superficial. This leads to a decrease in the productivity of bushes and weakening of the branches. At the same time, shoots appear in the young areas of the root system, which grow and bear fruit more strongly.

The lifespan of the mother bushes is 6-12 years, so the young shoots are left to bear fruit, and the old bushes are removed. This type of raspberry content is called tape with mandatory rejuvenation. Old bushes are removed with a sharp shovel and burned, the remaining ones are abundantly watered and fed.

Pruning goals

Summer Post Harvest Pruning Goals:

• thinning bushes for better ventilation and access to sunlight;
• increased productivity;
• prevention of fungal infections and the spread of insects;
• increased winter hardiness;
• giving the bushes an aesthetic appearance.

Timing of pruning raspberries after harvest

Experienced gardeners it is recommended not to delay pruning raspberries after harvest, motivating this by the fact that the sprouted shoots should be removed as early as possible, and special attention should be paid to sick and weak shoots. This will allow the shrubs to enter the period of preparation for winter, and not waste energy on building up the growth. In recent years, there has been an activation of bacteria and fungi, and raspberries are among crops that are highly susceptible to various diseases.

There are no specific dates for pruning the bush, it all depends on the growing region... The procedure can be started at the end of summer if the raspberries have stopped bearing fruit. The exception is remontant varieties, which re-bear fruit in the fall. Pruning of such raspberries is performed after leaf fall, since the plant transfers nutrition from the leaves to the roots.

You need to be in time 3-4 weeks before the first frost. The approximate timing of pruning in the regions of the middle zone is the second decade of August - September, in Siberia and the Urals - August, in the south - in July - November.

Auspicious days

Auspicious days in 2020 according to the lunar calendar:

• July - 1-3, 7-18, 22-31;
• August - 1, 5-10, 12-17, 21-24, 26-31;
• September - 4-9, 11-15, 19-20, 24-30;
• October - 4-9, 11-14, 18-22, 24-29;
• November - 2-13, 17-21, 23-28.

Auspicious days in 2021:

• July - 3-8, 13-17, 19-23, 27, 28, 31;
• August - 1-6, 10-15, 17-19, 23, 27-31;
• September - 1-3, 8-13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 24-30;
• October - 3, 4, 7-13, 16-21, 26, 27, 31;
• November - 1-3, 6-11, 13, 14, 17-19, 23, 24, 27-30.

How to prune raspberries correctly

Raspberry, like other fruit and berry bushes, cut according to the rules:

1. Fruiting two-year-old, dry, weak and fungal shoots are cut off first. Biennial branches are distinguished by a dark brown color of the bark; in annuals, it is greenish or light brown.
2. Pruning is carried out at ground level, leaving the stumps at a maximum of 5 cm in height to prevent the development of fungal diseases. Insect pests find refuge in stumps 20-30 cm high.
3. A sharpened secateurs are used for trimming. Previously it is disinfected in medical alcohol, a strong solution of potassium permanganate or 1% copper sulfate.
4. Since the raspberry bushes are thorny, it is advisable to protect your hands with gloves or use a delimber with long handles when working.
5. Bushes affected by gall midge are pruned below the thickening (nests with larvae), leaving a stump of 50-60 cm.
6. Stems with brown or black spots (purple spot) are cut at soil level. If the entire plant is affected, it is uprooted.
7. On each bush, 5-6 strong and strong annual shoots or up to 10 pieces are left. 1 m with tape planting.
8. After the end of fruiting, the tops of the branches of ordinary raspberries are shortened by 20-30 cm.
9. Cut off shoots are taken out to the perimeter of the site and burned.
10. The double pruning method is only used for regular raspberries. In remontant varieties, annual increments are not removed, since a crop is laid at the ends of the shoots.
11. Tall, but unbranched annual stems are completely cut off as they will not yield a crop.
12. The first double pruning is performed at the beginning of June, when the shoots reach 70-90 cm, and the tops are pruned by 10-15 cm. The second double pruning is carried out at the beginning of autumn - the tops are pruned by 5-15 cm. As a result, the shoots branch out and give more yield.

The nuances of pruning remontant raspberries

Repair raspberry differs from the usual ability to bear fruit on one-year and two-year shoots... With proper care, the second wave of fruiting occurs in the fall.

The desire to get the maximum yield plays a cruel joke with many gardeners. Partial pruning of shoots leads to weakening of the plant, infection with fungal infections and loss of varietal qualities. In the case of remontant raspberries, it is necessary to remove the entire aerial part without leaving hemp.

To get 2 crops per season, it is recommended to leave 5-6 of the strongest shoots on each bush., shorten them by 1/3 and cover for the winter, bending down to winter. In the spring, frozen or diseased shoots are removed, the rest are left, and small shoots are cleared to prevent thickening.

Post-procedure care

After harvesting, the raspberry plant needs special care and preparation for winter.

Watering

Raspberries love moisture, but in moderation... With its excess, the root system begins to rot. After harvesting, the raspberry plant is plentifully shed with water to a depth of 40-50 cm. Such irrigation is called water-charging. It helps the plant survive the winter. In the spring and summer, the bushes are watered 5-6 times.

In August - September, watering is stoppedto allow the plant to complete growth and prepare for wintering. In arid areas, winter watering is carried out in October - 50-100 liters per 1 m².

Top dressing

After harvest, especially for 2-3 years of fruiting, raspberries need feeding potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. It is important to maintain a balance of minerals - both excess and deficiency are dangerous.

Reference. With an excess of nitrogen in raspberries, the bark cracks, it is damaged by gall midge and purple spotting. As a result, frost resistance is reduced.

Phosphorus-potassium compounds are applied in late summer - early autumn... Gardeners prefer to use potassium without chlorine: 30-60 g of potassium sulfate, 20-30 phosphate rock per 1 m². Wood ash is especially popular due to the balanced content of potassium and phosphorus - 100 g per 1 m².

After fertilization, the soil is mulched with compost or peat a layer of 2-3 cm. Organic matter is applied every year - 2-3 kg per 1 m² - or in a year - 4-6 kg per 1 m². On depleted soils, raspberries are fed with organic matter annually - 10-15 kg per 1 m². It is recommended to use rotted manure or compost. Organic matter is scattered in the aisles with a layer of 5-15 cm.

Raspberries gratefully respond to micronutrient fertilizers with magnesium and boron... With a deficiency of magnesium, the leaves turn yellow from the center to the edges and fall off prematurely. With a lack of boron, buds and lateral branches do not form in spring. In autumn, the bushes are fertilized with magnesium sulfate - 25-35 g per 1 m², and in spring, borax is applied - 1.5-2 g m².

It is recommended to check the acidity of the soil after harvest... Raspberries grow best on medium-textured soil and humus. On light, low-humus soils, deoxidation with dolomite flour is carried out 40-50 g per 1 m², on neutral and overly acidic soils - 600 g per 1 m². Dolomite flour is also a source of magnesium.

The soil in the near-trunk circle is loosened, weeds and plant residues are removed... They work with a hoe within a radius of 1 m from the center of the bush, at a depth of 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the roots, which are located below 8-10 cm.

Preparing for winter

After pruning raspberries at the end of the fruiting season, growers start preparing for winter... If leaves remain on the shoots, they are carefully removed, leaving the buds. Then the branches are tied in bundles using metal staples and bent to the ground.

The most dangerous zone is located at a height of 50 m from the ground surface, this is where shoots are often damaged by frost. In most Russian regions in January, the thickness of the snow cover does not exceed 40 cm. Shoots are exposed in the zone of frosty air concentration. Therefore, for reliability, the bundled bundles are covered or wrapped with nonwoven material - agrofibre or tarpaulin.

To protect against rodents, the bushes are covered with barbed wire, mesh, spruce brancheslay out poisonous bait. Gardeners in the northern regions are advised to bend the branches as close to the ground as possible and cover them with straw. On wind-blown places, snow protection is made of plywood or polycarbonate from the leeward side.

Reference. The branches are bent at an air temperature of + 10 ° C, since they break in the cold.

Pest and disease prevention

The main pest of raspberries is the shoot gall midge, or raspberry gnat... To completely get rid of the pest, it is recommended to dig deep into the plantation and embed mineral fertilizers into the soil. It is prohibited to use pesticides after harvest.

Preventive treatment against fungal infections using Bordeaux liquid mixed with laundry soap for better stickiness.

Free soil in the aisles is deeply dugto destroy pest nests. It is effective against flower beetle (raspberry-strawberry weevil), stem fly, shoot gall midge, spider mite.

Plant residues are carefully collected, taken out of the plantation and burned... They hide the larvae of weevils, raspberry stem and shoot gall midges, causative agents of septoria, purple spot, rust, anthracnose. Mulching with a thick layer helps keep the bushes from insects and fungal infections.

Experienced gardening tips

Tips from experienced gardeners to help preserve raspberry bushes after harvest:

1. Cut out all fruit-bearing branches after harvest.
2. Prune in dry weather. The shoots will warm up and dry out, it will be easier to prune.
3. Place the pruning shears at or slightly deeper than the ground, and avoid stumps that harbor fungi, bacteria and insects.
4. Novice gardeners often trim the edges of the shrubs and leave the center untouched. On the one hand, such a haircut increases the yield, but on the other hand, it weakens the plant. Leave 5-7 branches on the bush around the entire circumference and be sure to thin out the middle. This will provide excellent aeration and pollination for the next season.
5. Remember to disinfect the instrument before use to prevent fungal infection.
6. Place the branches remaining after pruning in a fan so that they do not overlap each other.
7. Prune the thick 2-year-old branches first, then trim the young growth.
8. Pull the shoots ripe in July by hand at the base, they still will not have time to ripen before the cold weather.
9. Cut the repair raspberries after the second wave of fruiting. As soon as the plant sheds the foliage, shorten the two-year-old bushes to the root, in the annual, cut the tops by 15-20 cm.

Conclusion

Raspberry care does not end with harvesting. The gardener's work is in full swing before the onset of cold weather. Immediately after harvesting the fruits, they start pruning the bushes. Terms depend on the region of cultivation and last from August to November.

In ordinary raspberries, two-year-old, fruiting shoots are cut at the root, leaving 5-7 branches on the bush. Repaired varieties are pruned after the second wave of fruiting, shortening two-year-old branches at the root, in annuals, the tops are cut by 15-20 cm. Subsequent care consists in water-charging irrigation, mineral and organic fertilizing, soil mulching, and covering bushes for the winter.