When (in what month) and how to plant grapes with cuttings

Most gardeners prefer spring planting of grapes. During this period, favorable conditions are observed for the formation of roots. The cuttings have time not only to take root and start growing, but also to get stronger before the onset of the first frost. In this case, planting material can be used both with and without roots. How and when (in what month) to plant grapes with cuttings in spring are the main questions that will not go unanswered.

When and how to harvest grape cuttings for propagation

Reproduction of grapes is possible both vegetatively and generatively. However, the first option is most often used, since in this case it is possible to quickly grow a fruiting plant, while retaining varietal characteristics.

There are many ways of vegetative reproduction. Most gardeners prefer to breed grapes by cuttings. Planting material is used both with and without roots. Chubuki (one-year-old cuttings) quickly take root and easily take root in the open field. You just need to prepare high-quality planting material and carry it out correctly landing.

Cuttings are harvested in advance. This is done in the fall - from early September to mid-October... By this time, the plant has time to give the crop, but has not yet passed into a dormant state.

Advice! It is convenient to carry out grafting (harvesting shanks) during the autumn pruning grapes... Pruned vines are used as planting material.

Before proceeding to harvesting cuttings, the plant is examined for signs of infection with diseases and pests (spots, growths, plaque, damage to the bark, leaves, shoots). They choose a healthy bush with the highest yield rates, resistance to adverse environmental factors, large and tasty fruits.

Step-by-step instructions for harvesting grape shanks:

1. Vines with a diameter of 7-10 cm are suitable for harvesting. Leaves, shoots, antennae are cut off from them. The unripened part of the top is cut off, departing from the upper tip 20-30 cm.
2. The resulting vines are examined. They should be green, without spots, rot, distortions.
3. The vines are cut into pieces about 50 cm long. Each of them should have 4 buds. The bottom cut is made right below the knot. To make the top one, retreat 3 cm up from the kidney. This cut is made at a 45 ° angle.
4. The cuttings are soaked for a day, completely immersing them in water. Then sprayed with a solution prepared from 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate and a bucket of water. Then they are dried with a paper towel. The cut sites are covered with wax.
5. Chubuki are tied in groups, distributing them according to varieties, otherwise they will pull life forces from each other.

Winter storage methods

Harvested from autumn it is important to store cuttings until spring in the right conditions. They are laid out at home or in the garden.

Storage options:

1. In the cellar... A layer of sawdust is poured into a plastic bag, which is moistened with a spray bottle. Ligaments of shanks are laid on them. The bag is tied, but not sealed, and placed in the basement. The optimum room temperature is 0… + 6 ° C.
2. Location on... If there is no cellar with suitable conditions, the cuttings are stored in the garden. To do this, dug trenches 0.5 m deep. They should be located near a house, outbuildings or on a hill so that they are not flooded with water. If there is no such place in the garden, a second trench is pulled out next to it to drain the moisture. A 5 cm layer of earth is covered at the bottom of the ditch. Then the cuttings are laid and covered with sand with a layer of 10 cm, the rest of the space is filled with garden soil.
3. In a refrigerator... The cuttings are wrapped in a damp natural cloth and a bag with holes and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. During the entire storage period, the fabric is moistened as it dries.

For home storage, it is important to observe the temperature regime (0… + 6 ° C). If the temperature is too low, the cuttings will freeze, and if the temperature is too high, they will wake up and lose important nutrients over the winter. In both cases, by the spring the shanks will become weak, unviable.

Optimal planting time for grape cuttings

Grapes are propagated with shanks in two ways. In the first case, cuttings with a root system are placed in the ground, in the second - without it. Depending on the option chosen, a suitable time frame is determined.

If preliminary germination of the root system is planned, cuttings are taken out of shelters in the second half of February. On average, it takes about a month to form roots.

Planting grape cuttings with open roots in the ground is possible only after it warms up to + 10 ° C, and the air temperature reaches + 10 ... + 15 ° C.

The exact time of planting depends on the climate in the region. For example, in central Russia, planting of seedlings with an open root system begins at the end of April, and with a closed one - from the second half of May. In the southern regions, planting can be done at the end of March - beginning of April.

Grow immediately in the open ground, grape shanks without roots begin in the second half of March. By this time, the soil should thaw.

It is interesting! Some novice gardeners prefer to cut grapes only in the spring. Such planting material gives off a lot of moisture during the winter, so it must be soaked before planting for 3 days. Spring cuttings have a lower chance of germination than autumn cuttings because they often freeze over in winter.

Planting grape cuttings without roots in open ground

Before planting grapes with cuttings without roots, you need to choose a suitable place, prepare the soil and planting material.

Seat selection

To grow a vineyard that will delight you with abundant fruiting, resistance to negative environmental factors and diseases, it is important to choose the right place.

For grapes, the southern or southwestern side is considered optimal. With sufficient light, the plant produces large and sweet fruits, less often it gets sick. In the shade, the grapes are small and less tasty.

Often the culture is planted alongside houses, fences, and other buildings. In this case, at least 1 m recede from the wall.

It is important that there are no shading factors near the vineyard: trees, shrubs, etc. Grapes and sunflowers are considered bad neighbors for the culture.

Groundwater should not run close to the surface. It is advisable to plant grapes on a hill. If this is not possible, drainage trenches are dug near the plantings, which prevent stagnation of fluid.

Soil preparation

Before planting grapes, you need to prepare the soil. It is recommended to do this from autumn or spring at least 6 weeks before transferring seedlings to the ground.

Soil preparation:

1. In autumn, the site is cleaned of leaves and other plant debris. They dig up the soil.
2. Correct the composition of the soil. Grapes love slightly acidic soil. If the indicators are increased, dry lime is added. Humus is added to sandy soil, and sand to peat soil.
3. Fertilizers are applied to the soil. For 1 sq. m of land add 6 kg of manure, 1 kg of ash and 35 g of superphosphate. Fertilizers are leveled with a rake.

In the spring, the soil is watered with a hot solution prepared from a bucket of boiling water and 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate. The land is cleared of weeds and leveled with a rake.

Depending on the method of planting, dig holes or trenches. The removed earth is mixed with a bucket of humus and 1 kg of ash.

Preparation of planting material

Cuttings are removed from storage in 10 days and prepared for planting.

The list contains the main procedures:

1. Inspection. The shanks are checked for stains and mold, color changes. To ensure their viability, a longitudinal cut is made, which should be slightly damp.
2. Cuts. In the lower part of the cuttings, 3-4 longitudinal notches are made, cutting the bark. For this, a gypsy needle is used.
3. Soak. The cuttings are soaked in a growth stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Solvent) diluted according to the instructions. Soaking lasts until the upper kidney swells.

If mold has formed on the cuttings, then the storage conditions have not been met. In this case, the planting material will have to be thrown away.

Note! Not all growers agree on the need to cut the shafts before rooting. After all, there is no proven data that this accelerates the growth of roots. This procedure is not recommended if you plan to root the planting material in water.

Algorithm for planting grape shanks for beginners

In this case, the germination of cuttings takes place directly in the open field.

How to plant grapes in spring with cuttings without roots:

1. In autumn or spring (after the snow melts), they dig a hole 50-60 cm deep. It should be a little deeper than the length of the cuttings. It is important to do this in advance so that the soil has time to warm up for planting.
2. A bucket of hot copper sulfate is poured into the pit. By the time of planting, the solution will be absorbed and dry.
3. The shanks are placed in the pit with the top side down and covered with earth so that a layer 5 cm thick forms on top.
4. The soil is watered with water at room temperature. From above, the dug-in shafts are covered with foil or glass so that the soil warms up faster.
5. If the weather is dry, the soil is periodically moistened. You cannot fill the hole, otherwise the cuttings will rot.

A month later, the shafts are dug up. In the part that was on top, roots have already formed by this time. The tops that were below are usually dormant, but sometimes the kidneys wake up.

Cuttings with a root system are planted in a permanent place. Planting technology does not differ from reproduction with ordinary seedlings.

This method of rooting is based on the temperature difference between the top and bottom soil layers. In early spring, closer to the surface, the soil warms up, and remains cold at depth. Due to this, roots are quickly formed on the upside down stem, but the buds do not awaken ahead of time.

Spring planting of grape cuttings with roots

The easiest way to breed grapes is cuttings with roots. Such seedlings are sold on the market and in special nurseries ready for planting. They are stored until spring in the basement or bought just before planting.

Cuttings without roots are easier to germinate at home than outdoors. In this case, the chances that they will take root are greater.

How to germinate cuttings at home

There are many ways to root grape cuttings.

In water

Prepared (soaked in a growth stimulant) cuttings are placed in a glass, jar or cut bottle filled with 4 cm of water.

For the first time, a root stimulator ("Kornevin") is added to the water. The fluid is changed every week. To prevent the growth of bacteria, an activated carbon tablet is placed in the container.

To accelerate root formation, cuttings are placed near the battery. After 14 days, leaves appear on the plant, and after a month, roots are formed.

Water is added as it evaporates. If the liquid level is above 4 cm, the petioles will not be able to breathe and roots will not appear.

Rooting in the ground

Cuttings are cut at an acute angle and stuck into loose nutritious soil or sand so that they stand unsupported.

The container is placed in a warm place and covered with a bag. A 15-minute airing is carried out daily.

In peat tablets

Peat tablets are put into a container and poured with a solution of a root formation stimulator so that they are covered with liquid by 1 cm. As the solution is absorbed, add water.

When the tablets have increased in size, they are removed from the water and placed in bags. One shank is stuck into each peat bag. The whole structure is wrapped in a film or bag and put away in a dark place. On average, the root system is formed in 3 weeks.

When the roots reach 2 cm in length, they are seated in separate containers. It is convenient to use cut bottles.

At the bottom of the container, 2 cm of drainage (crushed stone, expanded clay, etc.) and 6 cm of earth are poured. A stalk is installed, the free space is filled with soil. Before planting, the seedlings are kept on the windowsill, watered as they dry with water at room temperature.

Instructions for planting seedlings with roots in open ground

After spring preparation of the soil, markings are made for planting grapes. The culture is planted in rows, keeping the distance between them from 2 to 3 m.The distance between plants in one row should be at least 2 m.

Step-by-step instructions for spring planting of grape seedlings:

1. Dig holes 80 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter. A drainage layer with a thickness of at least 5 cm is poured onto the bottom. A pipe is inserted into the hole through which watering will be carried out.
2. The earth taken out of the hole is mixed with humus, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, ash. A bucket of nutritious soil mixture is poured into the bottom of the hole. Pour 2 buckets of water.
3. When the water is absorbed, an earthen mound is formed in the center of the hole for open-root seedlings. Saplings are placed on its top, evenly distributing the roots in a circle. Seedlings with a closed root system (roots in an earthen coma) are simply placed in the hole.
4. The free space of the hole is filled with soil, periodically crushing the layers. The grapes are watered abundantly.
5. The trunk circle is covered with mulch. Use hay, straw, or humus.

Sometimes seedlings are planted not in holes, but in trenches. This method is suitable for those who want to create a large vineyard.

The above is the vertical landing method. There is also a technology that involves the placement of seedlings at an angle. The angle is 45 °. This method is more suitable for planting in trenches. With it, a stronger root system is formed.

Note! With thickened plantings, the vines are pulled up. This allows you to plant more plants in a small area. With a spacious planting, the bushes are spreading and squat. They are easier to care for.

Planting care

Caring for young plantings is not much different from the usual cultivation of grapes. The basic rules are presented in the list:

1. Watering. The grapes are watered with water at room temperature under the root as the soil dries. 2 days before flowering, watering is stopped, the soil is not moistened throughout flowering. Then watering is resumed.
2. Loosening. The next day after watering, the soil around the grapes is loosened. This is necessary to destroy the earth crust, which prevents normal air exchange. During loosening, young plantings are necessarily weeded.
3. Mulching. The soil around the plants is covered with a layer of mulch, which is used as sawdust, straw, hay, peat or humus. Mulch slows down the growth of weeds, protects against diseases, pests, temperature changes, and improves air exchange.
4. Fertilizers. The grapes are fertilized no earlier than 3 years after planting.
5. Garter. The grapes are tied to the trellis vertically or at an angle. In the first case, the plant is more actively stretched upward, and in the second it grows in breadth.
6. Wintering. For the winter, the seedlings must be covered with foil.If possible, they are covered with snow.

Conclusion

Spring is the most favorable period for planting grapes with cuttings. In this case, the plants have time to take root and get stronger before the cold weather.

There are 2 methods of propagation of grapes by cuttings - planting seedlings with and without a root system. Both options work well when the basic rules are followed. However, beginner growers are advised to root the shanks at home before planting in open ground.