We transplant raspberries to a new place in the spring

Caring for raspberries in the spring includes replanting to a new place. Such work is not carried out annually, but every few years they are necessary. After all, a change of location allows you to rejuvenate the bush, increase its yield and resistance to adverse environmental factors.

Transplanting raspberries to a new place in the spring requires some knowledge. If there is not enough experience in gardening, it is worth studying the rules for transplanting this culture, so that the effort expended is not wasted, but rewarded in the future with a bountiful harvest of sweet berries.

Why transplant raspberries to a new place

Raspberries, like most other fruit and berry crops, need periodic replanting to a new place. This is a mandatory procedure that will keep the raspberry plant in good condition for many years.

There is no need to replant the bushes annually. Frequent change of location will only harm the plants. It is enough to carry out such work every few years. An experienced gardener is able to determine the optimal time for the condition of the bushes.

Often novice gardeners and summer residents refuse to transplant, considering the procedure unnecessary, difficult and time-consuming. This mistake sooner or later leads to the degeneration of the raspberry tree. In order for the bushes to please with a good harvest for a long time, the procedure must be carried out.

Why transplant raspberries:

1. Change in soil composition. Over time, the soil is depleted, its composition changes. Because of this, the nutrition of the bush is disturbed, nutrients are supplied in insufficient quantities. The yield falls, the taste of the fruit deteriorates. Due to the changed composition of the soil, the problem cannot be solved even by applying fertilizers.
2. Thickening of plantings... The root system and the ground part of the bush grow. This leads to the fact that the plants are in shade, interfere with each other, air exchange is disrupted. These conditions increase the risk of raspberry infection.
3. Aging bush. Over time, raspberries grow old, throws out fewer young shoots, their yield drops, the berries become smaller. When transplanting, the formation of new shoots is stimulated, the bush is rejuvenated.

Transplanting raspberries allows you to rejuvenate the bush, extend its life, reduce the likelihood of being damaged by diseases and pests, and improve the quality and quantity of the crop. When transplanting, it is easy to form a new bush shape, choose the best location. This makes the garden more aesthetic.

Transplant timing

Agronomists recommend replanting raspberries to a new location every 4-10 years. During this time, as a rule, the bushes have time to grow and noticeably deplete the soil. It is not worth replanting them more often unnecessarily, it will even harm too young plants.

Advice! Transplanting raspberries to a new place earlier than the specified time may be required if the plant is often sick.

When choosing the timing of transplantation, experienced gardeners recommend focusing on the condition of the raspberry tree. If the plants are strong, healthy, not attacked by pests, are stable and bear fruit well, you can postpone the transplant, even if the raspberry has been growing in one place for more than 5 years.

Spring is the best time for transplanting. An important condition is to carry out work before bud break. If young leaves appear on the plants, the procedure is postponed until the next season.

The exact timing of the transplant depends on the region:

• southern regions (Krasnodar) - mid-March - early April;
• central strip (Moscow suburbs) - mid-April - early May;
• regions with a northern climate (Siberia, Ural) - May.

The timing of the transfer work is influenced by the climatic indicators of a particular year.

Benefits of a spring transplant

Not only spring is suitable for transplanting raspberries, but also fall... Most gardeners still consider the spring to be the most favorable period:

1. It is easier to predict the optimal planting time no matter how variable the climate in the region is from year to year. It is enough just to wait until the soil warms up to + 10 ° C, but the kidneys will not have time to wake up. Even if the gardener is a little late with the transplant, it will not harm the plant. In the autumn, it is more difficult to guess the timing, because in the event of sudden premature frosts, there are risks of death of a recently transplanted plant.
2. If you plant raspberries in a new place in the spring, then by the onset of cold weather it will have time to take root and get stronger. This will allow her to survive the winter. With an autumn planting, you will have to prepare more carefully for wintering.
3. During spring transplant operations, raspberries are still in a dormant state. In a new place, it actively starts to grow (it is in the spring that the plants develop most actively). Thanks to this, the first crop will be harvested at the end of this summer.

Spring planting has no disadvantages... Therefore, most gardeners choose this period.

Note! Some gardeners choose to change their raspberry growing location in the summer. However, during this period, it is most difficult to transplant the plant qualitatively.

Choosing a new location

To successfully transplant raspberries, it is important to choose the right place for them. You need to pay attention to illumination, soil composition, proximity to the location of groundwater, proximity and predecessors.

Favorable conditions

The more favorable conditions the raspberry grows, the higher its yield, tastier than berries. Also, the location affects the risks of infection with diseases and pests, the general condition.

When choosing a place, pay attention to the following factors:

1. Location... Raspberry is a light-loving plant, but prolonged exposure to the scorching sun will negatively affect its condition (leaves and inflorescences will "burn"). The place for planting it should not be heavily shaded, but location in the open sun is not a suitable option. It is best to place landings from north to south.
2. Wind protection. Strong winds are another negative factor for the growth of raspberries. To protect the plant from its effects, bushes are planted near fences, walls of outbuildings. Some gardeners are building artificial shelters. Such designs will protect the culture from the aggressive effects of ultraviolet radiation.
3. Groundwater. Their location should not be closer than 1 m to the ground surface. If the waters are close, be sure to dig drainage trenches along the raspberry tree.
4. Moisture protection... To avoid stagnation of liquid, which leads to decay of the roots, the raspberry tree is placed on hills. They can be formed artificially or be part of the natural landscape of the garden.
5. Soil composition... Loamy and sandy loamy neutral soils are ideal for raspberries; it also grows in black soil. If the soil on the site does not meet these requirements, then its composition is corrected by adding lime (with increased acidity), high peat (if the soil is alkaline), etc.

Precursor plants

Observance of crop rotation will reduce the likelihood of raspberry contamination with infections and pests. With the right choice of predecessors, the plant develops more correctly, since the soil has an optimal composition.

Best precursors for raspberries:

• siderates (oats, lupine, mustard, rye);
• legumes (all types of beans, peas, soybeans);
• pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers;
• cruciferous (cabbage);
• onion garlic.

Unsuitable predecessors are: garden strawberries (strawberries), potatoes, gooseberries, currants, raspberries. After these plants, the culture can be planted no earlier than 5 years later.

Gooseberries and currants are bad neighbors for raspberries. These plants suffer from the same diseases, increasing the likelihood of infection of the raspberry tree. The minimum distance between them is 5 m.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Proper preparation of planting material is the key to success. The technology of work depends on which part of the bush is used.

Regardless of the type of planting material, preparation begins at least six months before transplantation (in this case, in the fall). The bush is fed (humus, phosphorus, ash are added) and watered abundantly before wintering. They carry out treatment against diseases and pests, sanitary and formative pruning.

Mature bushes

Adult bushes are transplanted if they are healthy, strong, and in good condition. This is the most time consuming method that allows you to rejuvenate and preserve the old bush.

Preparing for transplant:

1. In the spring, before transplanting, all shoots are cut so that their height varies within 30-50 cm. After pruning, the plant will spend energy on forming a strong root system, and not on building up green mass.
2. A week before transplanting, the bush is watered and fed. For digging, choose dry weather.
3. The bush is dug in a circle of at least 30 cm, being careful not to damage the root system. Movement should be directed from the outside towards the center. When the plant is dug up, it is lifted with a shovel. If the bush does not come out of the ground, then the roots that hold it are not chopped off, but dug out.
4. If the plant is transplanted as a whole, then a clod of earth is left. To divide the bush, the root system is washed from the ground in water at room temperature.
5. The bushes are divided into parts with a secateurs. Each of the parts must have a fully developed root system.

Overgrowth

Shoots are shoots that eject buds located on the roots. It usually grows 20 to 70 cm from the bush.

It is better to replant root shoots in April. By this time, the shoots have reached a height of 15-20 cm, but still remain green. By autumn, they will become lignified and will take root in a new place worse.

Shoots are chosen that are located at a distance of 0.5 m from the bush and further. They are dug out together with a clod of earth, trying not to damage the root system. Separate from the mother root with a pruner or shovel.

In this case, when separating from the root system, the shoots are injured. To reduce the likelihood of infection and activate growth, the roots are washed from the ground, sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) and soaked for a day in a root formation stimulator. You can skip this and leave the seedling in a coma of earth.

Substitution spines

Replacement shoots grow from the main root. They are located in the very mass of the bush. The height of specimens ready for transplanting reaches 50 cm.

How to prepare replacement shoots for transplanting:

1. In autumn, after the end of fruiting, old branches and root shoots are cut out. Only well-developed replacement shoots are left.
2. Each shoot is tied to an individual peg driven into the ground.
3. Before freezing, raspberries are spud.
4. In the spring, the branches are cut 10 cm.Leaves of 1.5 cm are expected to appear.
5. The root system is chopped off around the shoots at a distance of 20 cm.
6. The bush is pulled out of the ground. Old branches are removed. At the same time, it is important that the replacement shoots have a developed, strong root system.

Rules for transplanting raspberries to a new place

It is not difficult to plant the finished planting material in a new place. You just need to responsibly approach the preparation stage and follow the step-by-step instructions exactly.

Preparatory stage

If it was not possible to prepare the soil for raspberries in the fall, then in the spring this is done no later than 3 weeks before transplanting.

In autumn, the site is cleared of weeds, fallen leaves, branches and other plant residues. The soil is dug to the depth of the shovel bayonet.

Fertilizers are applied. For 1 sq. m accounts for 6-8 kg of humus or manure, 35 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt. Some gardeners add another 1 kg of ash (for spring preparation) or 10 g of urea (for spring preparation).

If the acidity of the soil is increased, add dry lime (200 g of substance per 1 sq. M). You can determine the acidity using litmus paper or by examining the area. Horsetail, moss, rusty water in wells, white bloom on the ground are signs of increased acidity.

Advice! It is not necessary to fertilize the entire area. Some gardeners add nutrients to the soil removed from the planting pits.

Step-by-step instruction

When transplanting raspberries, you must follow the basic rules and stages. Below is the step-by-step instruction:

1. Before planting, the seedlings are inspected for spots, cracks in the bark, damage, and other signs of disease and pests.
2. Dig holes or trenches. A drainage layer with a height of at least 5 cm is poured onto the bottom and about 10 cm high of earth. Up to 2 buckets of water are poured into the pits.
3. For seedlings with an open root system, earthen hills are formed, over which the roots are evenly distributed. Seedlings with a closed root system are placed in a hole directly in an earthen coma.
4. To prevent the bushes from falling, they are fixed with support stakes.
5. The depressions are covered with soil. It is compacted layer by layer.
6. After planting, the raspberries are watered. The trunk circle is mulched with hay, straw or humus.

Landing patterns

They practice 2 planting schemes - pit and trench. In the first case, holes are dug up to 50 cm deep and 30-40 cm in diameter. They are placed at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other.

The second option involves digging trenches up to 50 cm wide and up to 40 cm deep. Raspberry bushes are placed in them at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. There should be at least 2 m between the trenches.

The pit pattern is suitable for planting single raspberry bushes, the trench pattern is suitable for organizing a large raspberry tree.

Note! Repaired raspberries are planted in the same way as regular ones. This parameter does not affect the months and methods of planting.

Post-transplant care

In order for raspberries to give large yields and not get sick, they need to be looked after, especially after transplanting:

1. Watering. Raspberries are demanding for watering, but do not like waterlogging of the soil. It is watered only in the dry season, when the soil dries out.
2. Loosening and weeding. After each watering and precipitation, the soil is loosened. Young plantings are important to weed regularly. It is convenient to do this while loosening.
3. Mulching. This procedure is recommended to open and close the summer season. Mulch performs several functions at once: it saturates the soil with useful substances, slows down the growth of weeds, protects the plant from diseases, pests, frosts, normalizes air exchange, and prevents liquid stagnation.
4. Pruning... The first 1-2 years after planting, pruning is optional. Then they act according to the standard scheme - they thin out the excess shoots, remove dry, damaged, diseased branches, root shoots.
5. Preparing for the winter. At the end of autumn, the area is removed from dry leaves, weeds, and broken branches. The bush is mulched. The first year after transplanting, gardeners recommend covering the raspberries with foil.
6. Tying. Raspberries need a garter, as thin branches can break under the weight of the fruit. This is especially true for remontant varieties.
7. Fertilizer. The first 3 years after transplantation, raspberries do not need feeding.

Conclusion

Transplanting will help prolong the life of raspberries, increase yields, improve the taste and size of berries, and reduce the likelihood of disease and pests. It is recommended to carry out it every 5-6 years, depending on the condition of the plants.

It is not difficult to carry out transfer work. The main thing is to start preparing in advance and follow the basic rules.